Huahine, French Polynesia

My lifetime “to do list” isn’t shrinking, even though I seem to be scratching out items every couple of years.  I guess with each accomplished objective, a new one pops in to take its place.  Oh well – that’s what makes life so fun.

 

To look at the list today, one would see a very satisfied line through “visit Bora Bora.”  Mission accomplished. 

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Welcome! Waterfront Property

If only there were bonus points– because I managed to scratch off “visit Huahine" and “visit Moorea” on the same trip.  And it went something like this.

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It was eleven p.m. when Suzie and I finally settled in to the naugahide chairs at LAX.  I was completely exhausted from the week-long pre-traveling drill (killing myself at the office, running around picking up supplies and tickets and documents, packing, forgetting stuff, running to the store…).  But I was happy to be here. The French AOM flight from Paris was delayed coming in, so our departure time was bumped to 2 a.m.  Didn’t care. 

Coconut Burger? True Native

When we did finally board, it would have been useful to carry a shoe-horn so that we could force ourselves into the tiny seats between the groggy French who had already been on the damn plane for 13 hours.  But again, with Polynesia only seven short hours away – I could handle just about anything (including the odor emanating from the Frenchman next to me who cleverly decided to forego a shower before boarding the plane in Paris).  Then came the wine, then the Tylenol PM and then sunrise over Papeetee, Tahiti.

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There’s nothing like that first breath of warm, heavy island air.  It literally washes away a whole bunch of everything that sucks back home.

The scene was set as we walked to the open-air terminal with Suzie pointing out the first rays of sunshine lighting the rich, jagged mountains of Moorea.

Share the Wealth Oh Boy!

As we moved off the tarmac, a couple of beautifully bronzed maidens distributed flowers to the wide-eyed foreigners to the accompaniment of a gentle Polynesia string band.  Man.

With minimal effort we were soon comfortably clipped in to the small propeller plane and on the way to destination number one – Huahine.  The flight was short, maybe 35 minutes or so, and before we knew it we touched down on the very picturesque, very undeveloped island of Huahine.  Waiting for us in the “airport” (teeny one-room building) was a very large, generously tattooed gentleman named Chotee.

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Sparkling Downtown Grilling Out
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Chotee loaded us into a small island-style pick-up and slowly transported us through time to a remote corner of the island where the thatched bungalows of the Sofitel Heiva nestled harmoniously among the swaying palm trees.

It only took a few moments in the warm transparent lagoon to wash away countless hours of airports and airplanes.

Firedancers Deep-Blue Harbor

Suzie was eager to try out her new mask and snorkel, so we spent the next few hours examining the palette of colorful fish and coral right of the resort's beach.

We spent the rest of the day sitting in comfortable beach chairs listening to the silence of the South Pacific and sipping cool water (*wink) from baby green coconuts.  Ok.

We arose early the next day and caught a ride into town.  Town was little more than a handful of subsistence shops and a couple of small outdoor restaurants surrounding a medium-sized cement jetty - yet is still bustled with life.  It seemed as if the entire local population gathered here to trade goods and stories.  Trucks bursting with local produce parked about the jetty as local fish vendors set up stands to distribute their catch.  After a leisurely breakfast in the local coffee shop, Suzie and I grabbed an orange soda, planted under a tree at the base of the jetty and watched the world go by.

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Not Very Populated Big Red Oar
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That afternoon (after a nirvana-like nap), we languished in the lagoon either floating face down inspecting the colorful fishes, or paddling an out-rigger canoe about the many small motus (islets) watching the wild boars scuttle around.    Time well spent.

I could sense the decompression, as my worldly woes washed away.

Same Thing Really Formalwear
Back at the Sofitel, preparations were already well underway for the traditional Saturday evening feast.

A festive event that includes wrapping fresh local seafood, chicken, pork, fruits and vegetables in wet banana leaves and burying the lot on top of piping hot lava rocks.

The meal is slow roasted throughout the course of the day (12 hours, I think) and opened in front of the gathering guests amid a great deal of dancing, singing and fanfare.  

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Our Home Sunrise over the Pacific

The food was abundant and inviting, as was the camaraderie among guests and staff alike, so we ate and drank for hours by the firelight under a blanket of twinkly stars.

The next morning we packed our bags and hopped into the lagoon for a final dip as our short stay on Huahine drew to a close.  We were sad to be leaving, but equally excited about our next stop...Bora Bora!