Did I mention the cavalier attitude Australians have towards regulation?  Case in point: Taking off from LAX in perfect weather, our extremely stable United 747-400 air barge slipped effortlessly into the calm night.  Thirty minutes into the buttery smooth flight the captain announced that the seatbelt light would remain illuminated until we reached our cruising altitude in about an hour.  Nervous Nellie Americans.  Contrarily, when we took off on our Qantas connecting flight from Sydney, the pilot roared into the turbulent sky at an alarming rate of ascent, and then instantly lurched the small jet into a demi-roll and jerked towards an Armageddon sized thunderhead looming low on the horizon.  Just as the blood flow returned to my head and I came to, the captain announced “G’day, please feel free to get up a stretch out about a bit.”  And I would have done just that if it weren’t for (a) the rather restraining laws of physics, and (b) the bubbly flight attendant who was already sprinting through the cabin flinging around oil cans of Fosters beer – at 8 a.m.!  Different culture.

So anyway, after...oh…a couple of hours on airplanes, we landed in the capital of northern coastal Australia.  Cairns is a pleasant little city.  Touristy, friendly and comfortable.  But we didn’t stay, opting instead to rent a car and head further north to Port Douglas.  Here’s a link to a good site for Port Douglas information.  This place is backpacker heaven.  There was plenty of rope sandal wearing, tie-dye, unshaven, bleary eyed, smiley travelers from around the globe filtering in and out of campsites and small roadside cafés downtown.  The farmers' market in the center of town has a carnival atmosphere of earthy Europeans/Americans beating drums, making bead necklaces, and honking in earnest on their colorful didgeridoos.  The Courthouse tavern and hotel serves as the cornerstone of town and is run by an ex-pat American who during our visit threw a memorable 4th of July bash complete with live music and fireworks.  Along with the variety of eateries and drinkeries (including the not-to-be-missed rustic Ironbar), the town sits directly on the unspoiled Four Mile Beach.  The opportunity for adventure is boundless.

Now here’s something most wouldn’t expect: the food in Australia is fantastic!  Who knew?  One bite of the sumptuous “mud crab” in drawn butter and you’ll be hooked for life.  Add to that grilled crocodile with garlic, steamed bay bugs (lobster-like shellfish), kangaroo satay and the local favorite barramundi (a tender fresh water white fish with an almost beefy flavor), and you’ll want to return just for the dining.  To top things off, the wine lists are chocked full of savory and affordable wines from Australia’s numerous vineyards.  For an unforgettable al fresco evening, try the Nautilus Restaurant - where Bill Clinton spent a leisurely evening during his presidential stop in Port Douglas a few years ago.

After several days of bulking up on Port Douglas delicacies, we were ready for the far north.  The single road north to Daintree carried us through lush tropical rain forests, over crocodile choked rivers traversable only by rickety ferry, and along pristine coastline.  The highlight of the ride was a stop at Mossman Gorge.  A photographer’s paradise.  I was so excited to try out my new camera in this verdant landscape that I forgot to use my polarizing filter on a couple of the shots!  (I am still #*&&ed about that today.)  Dammit.

Our final destination, Daintree Eco Lodge, was pleasant and soothing.  Well worth a night, but probably not much longer if your time is limited.  From the Eco Lodge I highly recommend the night crocodile spotting boat trip through the mangroves.  A small 8 passenger dingy slips quietly through the mangrove over water so mirror like in its stillness, that it is impossible to tell where the water ends and the reflection begins.  Off in the distance along the river banks tiny red reflective crocodile eyes stare down intruders, as the sounds of the swamp fill the air.  We soaked it all into our rugged Aussie boatman’s tails of horrendous croc attacks in the last few years.

And last, but not least, there is the Great Barrier Reef.  The crown jewel of Northern Australia.  Much to my surprise, the reef is actually several miles off-shore, and even in a fast dive boat, the trip out to the reef takes an hour and a half.  The ride is worth every second though – I have never seen healthier, more vibrant coral and sea life.  The clear water is teeming with interesting fish, turtles, etc.  If you are ever within 2000 miles of Australia, do not miss the Great Barrier Reef.

If you are considering tropical Northern Queensland, I’d highly recommend it!