May 2001

Our mini-trip to Sonoma, California reminded me of the travel articles that cover an urban city in three days. The daily itineraries seem reasonable on paper. But in reality, they are much harder to follow and complete.

Since the main goal was wine tasting, we agreed to visit six wineries on a Saturday. We decided to trim the list to five in order to enjoy a more leisurely pace. And since Carmenet didn't call us back regarding a tasting reservation, it was an easy choice to make.

We arrived in Sonoma Valley mid-morning and drove to the Ledson Winery at the north end of the valley. Ledson is more famous for its castle and manicured gardens than its wine. Even the market and the gift shop are bigger than the tasting bar. The wines didn't blow us away, but we did buy sandwiches and salads from the market to munch on later. And we nibbled on the samples of cheeses, spreads, oils and jams while we waited. Yum. (The grape seed oil stands out.)

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Entrance to Ledson View from the Front Door One Down, Four to Go

Sonoma is much more low-key, un-commercial and relaxed compared to Napa. It is also more spread out. Napa is like Sonoma's big brother - it is more refined, well known and upscale. And it is more crowded.

Napa is famous for high-quality California wine. Sonoma is beginning to receive praise for high-quality California wine. Napa's restaurants rival those in Los Angeles, San Francisco and New York. Sonoma's restaurants are tasty, but not over-hyped. Napa offers a bevy of personalized services - spa treatments, balloon rides, wine train trips, educational tours. Sonoma is currently developing alternate draws such as these.

Enough of the comparisons. Next stop Kenwood Vineyards. Kenwood is a quintessential California winery - redwood barn, convivial atmosphere, a variety of wines, bright and hot outside, cool and dark inside. And the tasting was free! I get the feeling that things haven't changed much here and I like it. For an extra $5 you get two special tastings of your choice and a Kenwood wine glass. We thought the '98 Russian Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon and the '97 Artist's Collection Cabernet Sauvignon were especially notable.

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Jo & John Low-Key Kenwood Aah...vino!

Since we were on the verge of eating our forearms, we stopped off at Buena Vista Winery and picnicked in their rambling gardens. The location is recessed and idyllic. We purchased a bottle of the Buena Vista Carneros Pinot Noir to accompany our boutique sandwiches and salads purchased previously. Count Estherhazy was smart to establish a winery here. And roughly a hundred years later, his family business is still flourishing.

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Hillside View Buena Vista, Here We Come! En Route to Our Picnic

Next stop - Ravenswood Winery. We had great expectations for the Zinfandel, but were forced to work through the thick crowd first. Since it was so full, the interaction with the staff was limited and we didn't learn much. Maybe it was the throng of people, maybe it was the afternoon heat. Whatever it was, we weren't impressed with the wine and couldn't wait to get back outside.

We found ourselves at Gundlach-Bundschu as the afternoon tapered into early evening. The facility is inviting and the small lake makes it seem cooler than it actually is. We really wanted to try the Cabernet Franc, but they were out. So we settled for a taste of the Bearitage (Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc blend) and some nondescript reds.

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Mother & Daughter Caves at Gundlach-Bundschu Eats at The General's Daughter

Since we were ready for a break, we drove to Sonoma Creek Inn next to the Sonoma Mission Inn & Spa and checked in for the evening. The Inn is fashioned after a 1930's motor hotel with the majority of the rooms on the ground floor with patios facing Boyes Avenue. The inn is reasonably priced, clean and new. A two-night stay is not required. The interiors are brightly decorated in 1930's motoring theme. Although the interiors are quaint, the bathrooms are equipped with modern fixtures and appliances.

Post nap, we freshened up and drove over to The General's Daughter for food and libations. We dined al fresco in their trellised garden as the sun dipped behind the hills. The food was well prepared and fresh. The mood was relaxed. The clientele was unpretentious. The desserts were appropriately sweet. What a delight.

Afterwards, we wandered through the Plaza with its multitude of boutiques, soda fountains, wine stores, restaurants and bars. The Sonoma Cheese Store looked interesting. And so did the Girl and the Fig Restaurant in the Sonoma Hotel. We stopped off at Murphy's Irish Pub for a nightcap and then returned to the inn for a night of uninterrupted, blissful sleep.

Hence, our day in Sonoma. Yeah, we probably could have tried to see more things, but who ever gets through the entire itinerary anyway? And would you really enjoy it?

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Buena Vista Ledson